Wave Mechanics and Hydrodynamics

Examples covering deep water and shallow water approximations, dispersion relationships, and wave transformation.

Deep Water Approximations

A deep-water offshore wave has a recorded period (TT) of 10.0 seconds.

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Shallow Water Wave Celerity

A wave approaches the coastline and enters an area where the water depth (dd) is only 4.0 meters. Calculate the phase speed (celerity) of this shallow water wave.

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Wave Transformation in Coastal Zones

An offshore wave with a deep water wave height (H0H_0) of 3.5 meters approaches a harbor entrance. The local wave transformation coefficients are: Shoaling coefficient (Ks=1.15K_s = 1.15), Refraction coefficient (Kr=0.95K_r = 0.95), and Diffraction coefficient (Kd=0.85K_d = 0.85) due to a nearby headland. Calculate the local wave height (HH) entering the harbor.

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Wave Dispersion Relationship

A wave with a period (TT) of 8.0 seconds travels through intermediate water with a depth (dd) of 15.0 meters. The required hyperbolic tangent value for this specific condition is tanh(0.97)0.748\tanh(0.97) \approx 0.748. Determine the wavelength (LL).

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